| The
fry's potato is a
means of
delivering a
chemically altered,
artificially flavored
soy oil. The fry fry
is tasty and
addicting. The fast
food industry and its
chemical allies copy
the cigarette
companies. "Hook
your customers on the
french fry as a
child." We tour a
french-fry production
line with Wizard
Grufflestomp. |
"Golden arches,
golden arches,"
screamed all three kids from
the back seat. We were
driving west on I-70 from
Denver towards Winter Park
and a week of skiing. I was
riding with a young family,
twin four-year old girls and
a three-year old boy, Tommy.
We were hungry. The kids
were whimpering. Dad kept
saying, "look for the
golden arches." The
children spotted the arches¾ a
full mile off the
interstate, huge on a
towering pylon.
Mom ordered a big carton
of french fries for each
child, plus chicken
McNuggets and coke. The
child’s packages came with
trinkets which she tossed
into the waste can. When the
twins complained, mom said,
"we’ve got a closet
full of these trinkets back
home."
The McDonald’s supper
that evening and the remark
about a closet full of
trinkets got me to wondering
about the eating style of
the modern family.
I’m not talking about
the pleasure of eating
french fries, which
obviously the kids¾ all
ages in fact¾
enjoy. I’m talking
biology, the gap between
what a child’s body needs
and what the body gets from
a carton of french fries.
Let’s find out.
We’ll tour a french-fry
factory with three-year old
Tommy. His guide, wizard
Grufflestomp.
We begin here," said
Grufflestomp, " the
farmer’s field where
french fries get their
start."
| "You’re
not such a smart
Wizard," said
Tommy
"Those don’t
look like potato
plants to me." |
"You’re not such a
smart Wizard," said
Tommy scrutinizing the
geometric rows of plants
stretching beyond sight.
"Those don’t look
like potato plants to
me."
"You’re right.
They’re soybeans."
Then seeing the puzzled look
on Tommy’s face the wizard
added. " Think of the
name, french fry, my little
friend. Do you see the word,
potato, in that name?"
"Er, no."
"Of course you don’t,
because the french fry is
half fat. You’re eating
soybean oil when you eat a
fry, my boy."
Grufflestomp’s chest
expanded. "Fat calories
galore. That’s why I begin
the fry tour here in a
soybean field, the main
ingredient in the fry. More
to the point that oil
carries a lot of
baggage."
"What do you
mean?" said Tommy,
wondering what baggage had
to do with french fries.
"Here comes some
now," said the tall
Grufflestomp ducking. An
airplane roared in just
above their heads and zoomed
over the soybean field
spraying a dense fog that
settled heavily into the
plants
"Urghhh." They
both choked on the acrid
smell.
"What’s the fog,
Grufflestomp?" Tommy
asked when he got his
breath.
"Pesticides, poisons
to kill insects and
weeds."
"If these chemicals
kill insects, what about
me?"
Not answering, the wizard
pointed to a stack of
five-gallon cans on the side
of the field. They looked at
the cans, the pesticides
containers. On the side of
each was a
frightening-looking human
skull and crossed bones. In
huge letters, the word,
TOXIC.
"Yikes," yelled
Tommy. "Does any of
this stuff get into the
soybeans?"
"Well," said
Grufflestomp, stroking his
white beard, "some of
that poison indeed gets
inside the soybeans and
accumulates in the
oil." He paused and
thought for a moment.
"For sure, soybean oil
carries a baggage of
pesticides residues which
wind up in the fries."
"Enough to harm
little boys who eat french
fries?
| "Hate
to tell you,: said
Grufflestomp,
"the government
has never studied the
toxic effects of those
residues on little
boys." |
"Hate to tell you,:
said Grufflestomp, "the
government has never studied
the toxic effects of those
residues on little
boys."
Tommy thought the
grownups who ran the
government didn’t have
much regard for the safety
of kids.
"Better move
on," said Grufflestomp
feeling awkward at his
inability to reassure Tommy.
He removed his right arm
from under his cloak and
waved his hand, thumb
closed, four fingers
straight up. In an instant
they were standing in the
middle of a factory with
tall towers, flaming stacks,
and a nightmare of pipes.
Very strange, thought
Tommy. Is this a tour of how
they make french fries?
First a soybean field and
now we’re standing in the
middle of what looks to me
like an oil refinery.
Reading Tommy’s mind,
as any good wizard can,
Grufflestomp said,
"Yep, it’s an oil
refinery all right. Not that
they make gasoline here.
They make soybean oil. They
do, however, use
gasoline."
Tommy couldn’t believe
his ears. Gasoline? What’s
that got to do with food?
They entered a steel
building. Inside was an
enormous tank that made a
swish swish sound, just like
the washing machine at home.
"The machine is washing
the soybeans with gasoline
to extract the oil,"
said Grufflestomp.
"The same gasoline
you put in a car’s gas
tank?
"Yes, the same but
without additives."
The wizard went on to
explain to the dumbfounded
Tommy that after the
gasoline extracts the oil
from the soybeans, they
evaporate the gasoline
leaving behind the oil.
Listening to the swish
swish of the gasoline and
soybeans, Tommy wondered if
gasoline residues remain in
the oil. More baggage, I
guess. Then he brightened.
Looking up, he said,
"well at least soy oil
has good things in it like
vitamin E and omega-3 fats.
Especially those omega-3
fats They’re major
building blocks for the
young brain."
"Hate to disappoint
you my young friend,"
said Grufflestomp pointing
to a furnace that was
heating the oil. "They
heat the oil to the boiling
point. to drive off various
odors. The high temperature
destroys the vitamin E. And
that’s not all."
What now? thought Tommy.
I hadn’t realized that
making a french fry was so
complicated.
They went outside.
Grufflestomp pointed to a
huge tower. "That’s
the hydrogenation
tower."
| Tommy
thought he was going
to learn how to cook a
food his mom gave him
and instead he was
getting a chemistry
lesson. |
Tommy was becoming ever
more bewildered. He thought
he was going to learn how to
cook a food his mom gave him
and instead he was getting a
chemistry lesson.
"Hydrog---, I cant
even pronounce the word. Don’t
tell me, but I bet this
chemical process adds
nothing to the nutrition of
soy oil."
"Bang on Tommy.
Hydrogenation destroys the
omega-3 fats your brain
needs and at the same time
creates a horribly unnatural
fat, called trans."
"What happens when I
eat trans fats?" Asked
Tommy
"Some of those trans
fats go straight to the
brain. Lousy things to have
there, like soft spots in
fruit."
Tommy groaned. "Are
the food companies aware
what they selling?
"Let me answer it
this way," said
Grufflestomp with a curious
smirk. "They don’t
put hydrogenated oils in pet
food. Too risky for the
health of the pets."
"I can’t believe
this. Hydrogenated oil
banned for animals but O.K.
for kids who eat
fries.." Tommy was
beginning to wonder about
the saneness of the adult
world.
"The smells from
this chemical factory are
making me woozy," said
Tommy. "Can’t we go
to the actual place where
they make french
fries?"
With a four-finger wave
of Grufflestomp’s hand,
they found themselves
staring down at a huge
cauldron the size of a high
school gymnasium. "What’s
this? said Tommy, drawing
back as a blast of
superheated air from the
cauldron hit him in the
face.
"It’s that
hydrogenated soy oil we saw
back in the chemical
factory, heated to furnace
temperature," said
Grufflestomp. "It’s
where they cook the french
fries. Look over
there."
A stainless steel
conveyor belt snaked over
the edge of the cauldron and
down into the hot oil. The
belt carried potato strips,
gleaming white, all the same
size and length. The belt
emerged from the oil bath
carrying the potato strips,
now turned into golden,
crispy fries.
A pipe in the one corner
of the superheated oil
caught Tommy’s attention.
It gushed fresh oil into the
cauldron. It seemed to Tommy
that, if they kept adding
more oil, the cauldron would
soon overflow. But it didn’t.
"Must be
magic," he said,
looking the wizard in the
eye.
"It’s magic in a
way Tommy. They add fresh
oil to make up for the oil
each fry sucks up. That’s
the magic, the trick that
gives the fry its taste. It’s
all in the oil."
"What do you mean
the magic is in the
oil?"
"I mean chemical
magic," said
Grufflestomp with a grin.
"The potatoes by the
time they are steamed
cleaned, sliced, and trimmed
into strips have lost their
natural taste. About as
tasty as wet cardboard Well,
chemists created the french
fry taste by mixing together
a bunch of pure chemicals.
They add the mixture to the
fresh oil you see pouring
into the cauldron."
"You mean to say
that when I eat a french fry
the taste comes from that
bunch of chemicals and not
from the potato."
"You got it my
friend."
"Ugh, more chemical
baggage my body has to deal
with." Tommy looked up
at Grufflestomp.
"Listen, I hate to
pester you, but what do all
those chemicals do in my
body?"
"Sorry you
asked," said
Grufflestomp, "because
I don’t know, but I do
know this much. The phony
taste does nothing positive
for you. The government
doesn’t require french fry
companies to check and find
out if the mixed chemicals
harm little kids¾ or
big kids for that
matter."
"If I ran a french
fry company, I’d want to
know about any harm my
product did to its little
customers," Tommy said,
starring at the endless
stream of freshly oiled
fries. "But then
three-year olds don’t run
food companies."
They walked into the next
room big enough to
accommodate a commercial
airliner. Whereas in the
previous room Tommy recoiled
from the heat, in this room
he hunched his shoulders.
His teeth began to chatter.
The conveyor belt loaded
with the freshly cooked
fries from the cauldron
entered the room. A huge fan
blew arctic- temperature air
over them. The fries
stiffened, frozen solid.
"The frozen
fries," explained
Grufflestomp, "are now
packaged and shipped to
restaurants."
"You mean to say
that when mom buys me an
order of fries in a fast
food restaurant they’re
not cooked there?"
"That’s right,
replied Grufflestomp .
"The cook, if you can
call the person that, takes
the frozen fries out of a
bag and dumps them into hot
oil. Simply to reheat them.
Customers think they’re
getting freshly cooked
fries."
"I suppose they use
the same artificially
flavored and sanitized oil
for reheating as they use
here in the fry
factory," said Tommy
with another groan. "No
omega-3 fats, plenty of
brain-softening trans
acids."
"Yeah"
"Let me get this
straight, Mr. Wizard,"
said Tommy straightening up.
"This hydrogenated soy
oil soaked into the fries
has nothing going for it
except fat calories. And it
carries a baggage of no-good
chemicals."
"Unfortunately, all
too true."
"Hey what about the
potatoes?" said Tommy.
"You hardly said a word
about them.’
"Nothing much to
say, Tommy," said
Grufflestomp, shrinking into
his cloak. "The potato’s
nutrition is either
destroyed during processing
or smothered by the
oil."
"Hmmph, well, I’ve
at least learned
something," said Tommy.
"What’s
that?" said
Grufflestomp, brightening at
the thought his little guest
got some benefit from the
tour.
| "The
potato serves as a
delivery system for
hydrogenated soy
oil." |
"I now understand
the secret behind the french
fry," said Tommy,
grinding his teeth.
"The potato serves as a
delivery system for
hydrogenated soy oil. The
oil with its phony taste
makes the fry so addictive.
Once a little kid like me
gets hooked, the french fry
industry and its ally the
chemical industry have
caught an oil customer for
life."
Epilogue:
French fries lead the
fast-food parade. Are these
foods linked to the
fattening of American kids?
Fat kids, fat adults. Fast
foods are based on three
items: sugar, salt, and fat—the
wrong kind of fat. Whether
or not a child becomes
overweight, long-term damage
to the body is a real risk.
Diet-related diseases
previously unknown in
children, like adult-onset
diabetes, are becoming
common in children.
Nutrition experts have
long pointed out a link
between fast foods and
health problems. Fast food
executives, not
surprisingly, deny any link.
But then the tobacco
industry has always
protested: "Chronic
health problems and
cigarettes? Absolutely no
link."
The End
Ó 2002
Ross Hume Hall. All rights
Reserved.
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